Spring on a ranch is short. The window between the thaw and the start of branding is when most of the fence work that's been waiting all winter has to actually get done.
Here's the checklist that working ranchers run before that window opens, and what to keep in stock so you're not making a hardware-store run mid-job.
Before you go to the pasture
A few things to do at the house first:
- Walk your fence map if you have one. If you don't, sketch the basics: gate locations, T-post lines, panel runs, electric vs. barbed sections. Mark the spots you know are weak.
- Inventory your fencing tools. Fencing pliers (good ones), T-post driver, hammer, sledge, post-hole digger, fence staples. If any of these are missing, get them now — not when you're an hour into a repair.
- Stock T-posts and wire. Always more than you think you need. A 100-post pallet costs less per unit than a 25-pack, and you'll use them this season or next.
Walking the fence line
When you go out, take:
- Fencing pliers
- A bucket of fence staples (1.5" galvanized)
- A few clips and inline strainers
- A small notebook (yes, paper)
Look for:
- Sagging top wires. Either a stretched wire or a loose strainer. Tighten the strainer first.
- Pulled-out staples. Common at wood corners after a winter of freeze-thaw. Drive new ones.
- Bent or leaning T-posts. Especially after cattle have been pushing on them. Drive them back in or replace.
- Broken bottom wire. Usually means a calf got under or a hog dug. Splice with a fence splice or replace the section.
- Gate hinges and latches. Wood expands and contracts; gates that swung clean in fall may bind in spring. Adjust or replace hinge pins.
What to repair vs. what to replace
The rule we use: if you've fixed the same spot more than twice in two years, replace the whole section. Patching the same weak link costs more in time over 3 years than just doing it right once.
Don't forget the electric fence
If you have electric on any of your fence:
- Test the charger output before you assume the fence is hot. A 10-mile charger that's running at 3 miles needs attention.
- Check ground rods. Loose ground rod connections are the #1 reason electric fences underperform.
- Inspect insulators. Cracked plastic insulators leak energy. Replace any that look chalky or split.
- Walk the polywire if you use it. Polywire degrades in UV; if it looks frayed, replace before it breaks at the worst moment.
Stock list for the spring
Based on what working ranchers ask us for most often:
- T-posts (6-foot). Stock at least 25 extra, more if you have a long fence to repair.
- Barbed wire (4-pt, 1320-ft spool). One spool per long section of repair.
- Fence staples (1.5" galvanized, 50-lb bucket). You'll use more than you expect.
- Fencing pliers. Keep a spare in the truck.
- T-post driver, knurled. If yours is bent, replace it.
- Inline strainers and ratchet strainers. A handful for the inevitable.
- Solar electric fence charger. If you've been running on grid power and want to extend the system to a new pasture, solar lets you skip the trenching.
When to call us
If you're spec'ing a major fence project — a new pasture, a new perimeter, a high-tensile installation — give us a call before you order. We can usually help size the materials list correctly the first time, which saves you from the "I need 4 more T-posts" hardware store run on a Saturday.